We finally left Iqaluit this morning under sunny skies and light wind, though it still was out of the SE. We fought through several bands of ice to get to open but bergy water. Were we ever happy. Everything was repaired and working except the aft alternator which was bathed in salt water from the water maker failures. We were encouraged by Psalms 91 and 20 and Hebrews 13:5-6 from Kip’s devotional; then trouble hit again. We started to make water and it failed again in less than 2 hours; though this time the failure was in a different part; this time in the pump module though the failure was a similar material defect. We went from such elation to being totally bummed out and discouraged. We are currently running out of Frobisher Bay in clear water. It is hard to see any stars because it is twilight and at 11:30 the sun is still setting.

We spoke to the Canadian Ice Service out of Sarnia, Ontario today and they said the Passage is opening according to schedule in the traditional route as predicted. We’ll report next steps tomorrow.

PS. Had Arctic Char for dinner. It was delicious; like salmon but richer with more oil and yet without an oily, fishy taste. Pat saw some people coming in from a day of fishing and asked them if he might buy some Arctic Char from them. They said they had plenty in the freezer and went home to return with three fish for us! We gave them Peets coffee in exchange and they seemed as pleased as we were! We again ran into so many people who delighted in going out of their way to help us.

Still eating well:

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We are waiting on parts which we expect Friday. In the mean time we have been cleaning up some of the list if issues with the boat – mainly electrical issues that were caused, I think, by the salt water bath taken when the watermaker blew again. The main engine still doesn’t run & we think it is a bad starter motor or a bad battery cell. We hope there is nothing else wrong.

The weather here is cold with rain AND ice. The locals say it is the worst in 10 years. So much for global warming – at least this week. We have been pushing off growlers and even some bergy bits, The winds are out of the SE so they blow right into the harbor. We have been bumped a few times; fortunately they move pretty slowly. I worry though about some of these underwater appendages reaching under the boat.

Things are expensive in Iqaluit. Without the watermaker, we will soon need water. We were told that many of the homes receive water service via truck; we thought great, but then learned that the minimum charge for water delivery is $200. This isn’t Perrier! We need about 130 gallons. So Pat went to the store and they had a 7 gallon container of water for sale for $27. Well, it’s our new friend Joe to the rescue. He loaned us a container and it was full; he has promised more for tomorrow.  Aren’t the people here really nice and friendly toward strangers. They seem to have the time and are willing to invest it with us. We should be more like that to others at home.

So far we haven’t been able to connect to the internet; we’ll keep trying. We know you are going to like the pictures.

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After running all night, we went through one last ice field and we are now at Iqaluit on a mooring. Joe let us have it, and is putting his boat in the mud. One more Peets coming up! The only dock dries at low water, so all needs to get done via Olive and we have a lot to do! Weather is cold and overcast/drizzly.

Editor’s Note: The updates regarding the decision to head to Iqaluit and the arrival there all came in at once, but we’ve put them in at the appropriate times when they were actually written.  Rebecca (Shane’s wife) says that she talked with Shane after they arrived, and that they will be trying to post some pictures soon.

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